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Breaking
the Ice:
Lyon
go to |The Euro is Coming|
International
Education| Panorama | Beaujolais
Nouveau| What's Cooking| Cultural
Survival|
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Lyonnais Architecture
see chapter 4: Settling Down
France is renowned for the variety
of its urban and rural landscape. In the Rhône-Alpes region, however,
there are so many different styles that it is hard to speak of a distinct
regional architecture.
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| Lyon was a capital that never had any provinces. It never reigned over
a territory; so you will not see many examples of monumental architecture
designed to mark symbolically the power of the city. What the urban and
surrounding landscape does reveal is the influence of its close or distant
neighbours: Dauphiné, Savoie, Provence, Italy. |
The virtue of discretion
Local architecture is characterized by simplicity and sobriety. Ostentation
is frowned upon. At first sight, the affluent district of Ainay does not
look very different from less classy neighbourhoods. But push the heavy
doors guarding the courtyards, and you'll think you're in Tuscany.
Mediterranean influences
Tall houses, the prevalence of apartment buildings and the architectural
importance of stairways are features that you will find in Nice, Napoli
and Lyon. One should never forget the Roman origins of Lugdunum, nor the
importance of the Italian community during the Renaissance.
Croix-Rousse
The houses inhabited by the Canuts are the only buildings that can
truly be said to be typical of Lyon. Croix-Rousse invented a new type of
apartment-house that combined the workshop with family lodgings. Built
on the slope of the hill, the tall Canut house had high ceilings for the
loom, and wide-windows to let the light in.
As the weavers had to carry huge bales of silk they needed broad stairways
that became a key element of the architecture. Nowadays, the former apartments
of the Canuts make a great duplex (a two-floor apartment) and are
much sought-after. Have you noticed anything strange about the windows?
Lyon, like Italy, prefers Venetian blinds to the wooden shutters constantly
encountered elsewhere in France.
Door culture
Part of the Lyon experience is trying to enter, or exit, a typical
French apartment building. Some have entry phones (interphone) which
are easy to use provided you remember the last name of the person you're
visiting. Others have a digital door entry system (digicode)which
means you need to remember the magic combination of letters and numbers
that will open the door. For extra security, codes change often, and if
you have not been given the latest one, you may find yourself locked outside!
The same goes for the traboules (secret passages) and lovely
courtyards, hidden behind the locked doors of apartment buildings in the
Saint-Jean area. Although these ornate Renaissance courtyards are listed
monuments and are mentioned in every guide-book, they are often off bounds
to the passer-by. If you really want to get in, just wait long enough outside
the building until a tenant in possession of the magic code comes along.
Flash a smile and follow him or her in. Trying your most charming foreign
accent or waving a guide-book (Breaking the Ice!) will enhance your
chances.
When its time to leave a building, you may have trouble finding your
way out. [...] |
The Euro is
Coming...
see Chapter 6: Money matters
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Lyon is renowned for being a city of merchants and
bankers.
All the major national and international banking companies
have branches in Lyon.
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| Euroland
The very expression offered the opportunity for practising one of the
favourite national sports: linguistic protectionism or la défense
de la langue Française. Euroland, sounded too much like Disneyland
(sorry, Eurodisney!) and was felt to be another symbol of the domination
of the English language world wide. Some modernists suggested adding an
e to land, thus Eurolande would not offend French spelling. However,
the purists argued that such a compromise was nonsensical from a linguistic
and grammatical point of view. The matter was brought to the consideration
of the wise members of L'Académie Française. After
careful deliberation, l'Académie gave its answer: officially at
least, there would be no Euroland but a zone Euro.
Until 2001, citizens in the European Union may use either the local currency
or the Euro.
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For European Union residents living in France, opening a bank account in
Euros may be worthwhile and would make money transfers easier. However,
remember that the banks charge for converting your local money into Euro
currency. Despite the official advertising in favour of the Euro, most
bank managers will privately advise their customers to "wait and see" before
opening a Euro account.
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For the time being, non-EU residents are better off opening a bank account
in French Francs.
[...] |
International
Education
see Chapter 8: Education and schooling in Lyon
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If you have young children and if you want them to
mix as soon as possible with the local kids one, of the best ways is to
sign them up at the local school.
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| You will be amazed at how quickly they pick up French. Teenagers, however,
may find it more difficult to adjust to the French secondary education
system.
The Lyon area has a number of bilingual schools which are often more
receptive to the needs of international pupils. These establishments usually
cater both to foreign and native children. Indeed, many French families
consider learning a foreign language at a young age as an asset.
Some expatriate families choose to send their children to the Geneva
International school in Switzerland, where international education is well-developed.
[...] |
Panorama
see Chapter 9: Lyon: Past and Present
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Lying between two low hills, Croix-Rousse and Fourvière,
Lyon, the city where two rivers meet, offers a unique panorama of the history
and geography of the area.
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| To the west, the Monts du Lyonnais are an introduction to a bucolic
France where tiny villages perched on the crests of soft-swelling hills
overlook green pastures and the meandering Saône. To the east, the
wide open plains have enabled Lyon to keep the heavy industry of the 19thh
and 20thh century at arms length. Hence, the city shows no break
with its 2,000 years of history. It is this historical continuity that
led UNESCO to list Lyon as one of the World Heritage cities.
A river: Fleuve et rivière
What's the difference between le Rhône and la Saône?
"Facile!" French primary school pupils will yell. Le Rhône
is un fleuve while la Saône is une rivière.
And they may go to tell you that un fleuve is a main stream that
flows directly into the sea, while une rivière is a tributary.
Hence, le Rhône which flows into the Mediterranean is un fleuve.
La Saône which runs into le Rhône at the Perrache confluent,
is a mere rivière.
The trouble is that where the French see two quite different things,
English speakers have only one word, "river", and don't waste time quibbling
over where the water is flowing. Beyond the anecdote, this example not
only shows the limits of translation, but also that the French and the
English language convey two different views of the world. To understand
a language properly, and the people who speak it, you need to share the
same world view.
Who are les Lyonnais?
A mural Who's Who
The best panorama of Lyonnais celebrities throughout the centuries
is to be seen on a wall. Indeed, trompe l'il frescoes are a local speciality.
At the corner of quai Saint-Vincent and rue de la Martinière, 31
characters are depicted on a surface of 800 square metres. All those who
have marked local life in the past 2,000 years are present: Emperors, saints,
artists, industrialists, writers, film-makers and even chef Paul Bocuse.
Guignol
This local version of Punch and Judy embodies the authentic Lyonnais
spirit. The Guignol puppet wears the traditional Canut dress and speaks
with a distinct Lyonnais twang. Guignol is on the side of the poor and
the oppressed, and always has a good laugh at the expense of the Authorities.
Other colourful characters include Madelon, Guignols wife, rarely seen
in a good mood, and Gnafron, always in need of a wee drink. [...] |
Beaujolais
Nouveau
see Chapter 13: Going Out
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This is probably one of the greatest publicity stunts
of the century
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Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé !
This is probably one of the greatest publicity stunts of the century,
that turned a nice vin de pays into an international event celebrated
all over the world. The new Beaujolais is put on the market on the third
Thursday of November. Lyon, only a stones throw from the region where it
is produced, goes wild on that day. All the bars, cafés, and restaurants
organise special Beaujolais nouveau parties where wine-tasting is de
rigueur. If you have any prejudices about the "uptight Lyonnais", you
are in for a surprise when the heady libation hits the city.
Les Mâchons
This local custom is slowly disappearing but you may still find a few
cafés observing it. Traditionally labourers took a break at mid-morning
to have a bite to eat. An assortment of cochonaille (pork meat,
sausages) and a pot de Beaujolais usually kept them going till lunch
time. In Lyon, where food is a life style, most traditional cafés
also serve pub grub. The food is simple and wholesome as the menu depends
on what's available on the days market. [...] |
What's Cooking
see Chapter 15: Art de Vivre et Savoir Vivre
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There is not just one Cuisine Lyonnaise, but many.
Newcomers should definitely try la cuisine de bouchon.
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True to its vocation as a crossroads, Lyon borrowed from all the great
gourmets who travelled the Rhône. The diversity of the local gastronomy
proves the variety of these influences.
Bon Appétit !
A lexicon of Lyonnais cooking
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La quenelle
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In Lyon the real quenelle is made with pike (brochet). It should
be eaten straight out of the oven and the quenelle should be souffléed.
It is often served with a tomato sauce or a Nantua sauce (contains crayfish)
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Le tablier de sapeur
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a slice of beef or veal stomach usually served in fried or grilled breadcrumbs.
Somewhat similar to tripe.
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L'andouillette
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a hefty sausage made locally of calf's mesentery (a membrane enveloping
the intestines)
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Fromage de Tête / Salade de museau
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beef or pork muzzle. Usually served cold with a vinaigrette.
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Cervelle de Canuts (Canuts' brains)
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No, the Lyonnais aren't cannibals ! This is a whipped cottage cheese blended
with shallots, white wine, salt and pepper.
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Les grattons
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pork cracklings with herbs and spices. A crunchy apéritif
snack.
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Gratin Dauphinois
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borrowed from neighbouring Dauphiné and often served as a side dish.
Gratin is made from thinly sliced potatoes, cream or milk, and is baked
in the oven. Recipes vary from one family to another and are jealously
guarded secrets.
[...] |
Cultural
Adaptation
see Chapter 18: Beyond survival
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Why did this person react like that? What have I
done to be treated like this? How should I have behaved in those circumstances?
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| Probably the most frustrating thing in a foreign country is not being
able to decode what is going on because of "the hidden dimension" of cultural
interaction: Why did this person react like that? What have I done to be
treated like this? How should I have behaved in those circumstances? These
things may appear secondary to you if you are struggling with the French
language, but very often you will realize that it is not the spoken language
that is the problem, but the unspoken language. In fact it is not too hard
to clear up a linguistic misunderstanding even with rudimentary French.
Cultural misunderstandings, on the other hand, are much more difficult
to detect and therefore harder to correct. Body language (a French person's
gait or posture is so different from that of an American); the conception
of time (much more "elastic" in France than in Germany), notions of status
(different from the class consciousness of the British), etc. if misinterpreted
can cause unease. Even when you are aware of cultural signals it is easy
to misread them. Hence, a French person's stance and facial expression,
characterized by extreme reserve, may be taken to denote arrogance by someone
from a society where one is expected to show the sunny-side up which, inversely,
may be taken by the French to indicate a certain smugness!
Cultural conditioning is extremely hard to overcome. For some people
it is harder than for others depending on their personal history and psychological
make-up. Your motivation for taking up an assignment in Lyon (for example,
career goals or research interests), your previous experience of dealing
with foreigners, the degree of empathy (the ability to see things from
another's viewpoint) you possess, your ability to tolerate ambiguity and
refrain from judging unfamiliar ways, your expectations, etc. can all affect
your long-term adjustment. [...] |
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